Una din cele mai bune organizari de trailrunning din .ro fara indoiala. Nici nu cred ca putea sa fie altfel cand ai in organizare repere ale alergarii montane din anii trecuti. Iar faptul ca se desfasoara in octombrie e cireasa de pe tort: ruginiul padurii scrie povesti. M-am simtit exact ca intr-o carte de colorat d-aia in relief, cu diorame de carton.
A fost si prima mea alergare pentru o cauza:
Impreuna cu ce mai stransesem pentru THE COLOR RUN, s-au strans peste 500 lei ca sa o ajut pe Marina (povestea ei aici).
Le multumesc tuturor ce au donat pentru cauza ei !!!
Sa tot fie doi ani de cand am participat la un eveniment de trail. M-am bucurat enorm de aceasta alergare si de natura. Am fost inspirat sa imi iau GoPro-ul dupa mine cu toate ca n-aveam chef, vroiam sa ma bucur de cursa fara sa ma gandesc ca mai trebuie sa mai si trag cadre. Nu imi pare rau:
Sunt oameni tineri cu probleme esentiale de viata, ce isi doresc sa evolueze, sa isi depaseasca conditia dar mediul si societatea in general nu le permite acest lucru. Eu am ales sa o ajut pe Marina, o adolescentă ce a crescut în asistență maternală, apoi în orfelinat, iar de câțiva ani, în casa de tip familial Cavalerii din sectorul 4 din București, casă construită de Hope and Homes for Children. si am nevoie de ajutorul tau !
Pe 23 Octombrie alerg la Azuga Trail Race pentru ea. Sustine-o sa isi continue visul ! Fa o fapta buna..!
Tânăra a fost admisă la Facultatea de Sociologie și Asistență Socială, cu media 8.90, și are nevoie de o bursă de studiu pentru cei 3 ani de facultate ca să își continue studiile și să aibă toate premisele să își atingă potențialul. Să simtă că nu este singură, că nu e nevoie să muncească și să-și neglijeze școala, dar mai ales că deși părinții ei nu au putut fi lângă ea niciodată, noi, ceilalți, putem fi. Fă o donație pentru Marina și ceilalți tineri din programul de reintegrare socio-profesională pentru ca împreună să construim lumea mai bună pe care ne-o dorim cu toții!
Donatiile se duc direct in contul asociatiei prin intermediul platformei de colectare a donatiilor Galantom
Apasa pe imaginea de mai jos cu pagina mea de fundraising si doneaza oricat poti (am targetul setat la 250 lei):
Azuga Trail Race s-a întins pe o perioadă de trei ani și cu ocazia
fiecărei ediții, 2012, 2013 sau 2014, a prezentat muntele așa cum e el:
cu Soare, cu ploaie, cu ceață, cu vânt, cu frig, cu ape învolburate, cu
cărări antrenante. De fiecare dată diferit, dar mereu primitor!
Multumesc celor ce deja au donat la evenimentul anterior, alergarea de la The Color Run:
Of my 47 years of life, 29 I did cave exploration. This was my life and continue to be. This is what I live for and this is who I am.
Everything started back in 1992 in "Avenul cu gheata din Piciorul Babelor" a full exploration from zero (discovery and exploration and a couple of years later survey) that marked my entire life and vision about nature. There is nothing comparable with exploration, knowledge, the will and the feelings that I live when doing this.
In 1991 I read the BIBLE of romanian speleology "Omul si Pestera" (The man and the cave) by Marcian Bleahu. Never, ever somebody will write such a masterpiece again! Period.
The first chapter of First Part and the Second Part captured me complete. You can't be untouched by such a universe from thousands of years ago created by the author As a teenager hungry for information I read it in a couple of days. Then I went back to it to read it again. Then again, and at several years again. It's like a ceremony every few years, not to forget where I came from.
Mr. Marcian Bleahu died two years ago, in the summer of 2019 when I was in an expedition in Albania, in Maja Arapit. I didn't had time to greed such a loss. That guy changed my life forever I wish, wherever he is, to write the continuation of that book with present days, so I can read it when we will meet again on the other side.
After this bible, followed "Relieful carstic" (The karstic relief) also by Mr. Bleahu, that is a natural continuation of "Omul si Pestera" because beside exploration history and evolution of the equipment you have to understand what's going on in these dark corners of the Earth, called caves.
This book cover geological aspects, designations and several theory of how caves were formed wrote in a normal manner, not academic, so everyone could understand. After I understand the meaning of those books, I started to take speleology serious, not just as an adventure in week-ends.
There are more books, of course, for example "Aventuri sub pamant" (Underground Adventures) by Norbert Casteret, probably the best cave explorer of all times regarding what era he lived. People were afraid of the dark (like today, sic !) and only the idea of passing sumps underground was considered some mental disease. In Europe, E.A.Martel founded the "physical speleology", caving as we know it today.
These pioneers had to fight with a system that was stuck in the past and held back by religion, with a community that considered this activity a dangerous non-sense. Well, because of speleology we now have the history of evolution, almost intact fossils, tools form Pleistocene.. If those objects were outside the cover that the caves provide, the dramatic changes in climate would destroy them. But in caves, time have other scale. In caves, the watch is at geologic scale. One thousand years is a small stalagmite. Ten thousand years could make a column or a human size stalagtite. Human life is just a calcite crust....
Today explorations are more and more difficult because of one simple reason: while the surface of the Earth is the same, more cavers are looking for the new ones. The era of big entrances unexplored situated near villages are over. Either you go in alpine areas difficult to reach, countries with lack of speleologists, or try to find continuation of old passages that were let unexplored by former explorers. Of course there are exceptions, but a few.
Getting older also doesn't help, but the experience can substitute physical condition due to age. I think more where I plant a bolt, how I charge a wall with legs or hands while climbing . The only problem that can't be overcome with experience is the weight of the backpack. Well...I think it is time to write a book !
I registered one week before the event. I was sure that all running
events are not going to happen because of the times we live but a spot came
in front of my eyes while navigating for news on internet. I was happy
to see it and I registered for 10K race due to lack of any training or
organized run since 2019.
Everything fine, till I went Saturday to pick-up my kit from the Sport Expo that is the base camp of the event. After showing the vaccine certificate to pass through the entrance, when I asked for the number I was congratulated by the girl who was giving the envelope. I was like "huh?".
Then, I go to pick-up the T-shirt and the bonus stuff that usually are found in a marathon kit. There, the guy also congratulate me so I started to panic a lil'. "Was the 10 K already took place ?" I pick up my phone and went straight to event website. Well...yep, the 10K race just finished. Due to COVID thing there were no kid's race, no family race and instead they moved the 10K on Saturday and Sunday was reserved only for 21K to keep the numbers of people involved low. I couldn't believe I didn't payed attention to the schedule. I was sure would be like last years in "normal" conditions when Saturday was Kid's Race and Family Race.
I had to take a deep breath and relax :). I went back to entrance gate to request a registration "on site" to Half Marathon. Was possible, fortunately and I had to pay a difference fee. Then, took the envelope with the new number, went back to kit pick-up area and I got a coffee to start to think at what I was just did. Well, a Half Marathon is not the end of the world but I was not prepared at all. Well, I will crawl somehow to the end :).
Well, was not so bad, after all. I kept the pace very low to be sure I will finish it and not to force anything in the untrained knees.
We were less than 2000 at start...strange feeling. So much space around... . I never saw something like this before. And was so quiet, even if the announcer was talking at a microphone.
The whole city was actually almost empty and I want to thank the people from the "strategic" points that colored the sad atmosphere. Running is a joy not some punishment. Beside the fact that you have to fight with mental and physical fatigue now we had to fight also with the pandemic situation that we have to pass.
But at the end all these were gone, back to friends, back to stories. I made it and I didn't had to crawl one meter :)! But for sure I will pay attention more carefully now at the schedule of races...
This was the last exploration expedition here. Every corner we checked ended somehow. Every cave have an end and this expedition marked the end of Kreuzhohle's 10 years of explorations... . We need to make another trip down there to remove the ropes, carabiners, bivouac materials etc. . What we will not remove is the hard work and the passion we invested in this "dark palace". The endless hours on ropes, the cold, the stone flying near you in the middle of the shafts, the happiness when we saw a new hall around the corner, the winter that suddenly came outside while we worked for six days in cave. The evenings and mornings in bivouacs when we reported each other what we went through. All these, can't be drawn on maps, can't be shown in pictures, can't relive while watching films, all these stay with us forever. This is what caving bring to cavers. Life at it's apogee.
With a depth of -782m on one side and -700 in other two shafts in totaly different areas and a development of almost 4500m, Kreuzhohle doesn't shy to it's neighbors.
And now back to the story....
Between Lofer Camp that took place at the end of August and this expedition I stayed in Germany, afraid that if I would go back home it would be impossible to return due to COVID thing. So, at the end of Lofer Camp I let at hut some stuff to "rest" for 3 weeks. I came by train from Neuwied to Worms changing 3 trains and from Worms I joined Oliver in his car to Austria. We picked Mark from the way also. Petr came alone with his car from Stuttgart.
Friday evening we met all four at Peyerl guesthouse in Lofer. We were the only clients of the guesthouse. Lofer was also empty. Covid-19 crisis is changing time as we live it. Nothing is normal anymore. There is a good thing tho: overcrowded places are quiet places now.
Saturday morning we had a great breakfast in a sunny weather and we went to park the cars in Loferer Hochtal. At 9:37 we started on the trail to von Schmidt Zabierow hut.
Four hours later we had a meal in the hut. There, Marvin was waiting for us. He came there earlier and did some things like installing CaveLink antenna. Unfortunately the SIM contact of the CaveLink was not working and it would be impossible to receive forecast updates while we will be underground because nobody will stay outside to text us the forecast, just from the comfort of the sofa back home. So, we will have connections between the two teams inside but no words from outside. But, we have waterfalls noise and airflow direction to interpret the weather outside :).
We divided the materials that needed to be carry to the cave entrance in this day and the next one. More than half of the equipment necessary to the expedition we brought already by Saturday.
Back to hut, we had a great dinner and I chose again to sleep outside. I do this every time the weather permit it. Is phantastic. I can watch the stars while falling to sleep. And beside that, nobody is snoring or farting around.
After the breakfast we took our 2nd part of equipment needed for exploration and went to cave. As usually we did the picture before the entrance.
Mark went with Petr in front, then I went with Oli. On the big shaft of 96 meters I realized is not my day. The descender got stuck several times and I had to push the rope in descender harder then ever. In the first rebelay I was unsure if I should mount the rope in "zero" or on normal way. I decided to let it on normal. Big mistake ! My stop was jammed no matter what. I started to push the rope with my right hand like crazy. Descending like this 30 meters and then 50m left me with an crazy muscle burn in right hand. When I reached the bottom Oli asked me if I am ok.
- Well...I am not going back now, let's go !
We continued on the path that we know like our home until we reached Hall I from The Ruins where is our main bivouac since 2014. Plans were simple: Petr and Mark are trying to push through in the deepest part of the cave. Me and Oli would erase the last 3 question marks on the western part of the cave. Derigg anything if possible while coming up.
Monday, after the first night in Hall I where we stayed all four as a team, we split. Mark and Petr dressed with garbage bag of 120 l over their caving suits were ready to meet the Niehamwassa shaft.
I went with Oli through Hall II, IV, III and then the muddy shaft that goes to Hall V and we turned right in Hall VI where a shaft left unexplored was waiting us. A rope stored for that was also available on site. Oli started to rigg, I came with DistoX and the tablet behind. There is some water flowing in the pitch but not much. After -27 meters we reached a crack that led us to another shaft with a big stone that looks like a rabbit. Here some serious water is coming from above. Bolt, sling, bolt and down !
Looking from above this place looks familiar, so I was thinking with loud voice:
- Hmm, I know this place, wtf !
Was the passage we explored four years ago coming from the bottom of Hall VII that goes in an dead end. Good, we have another connection !
We went back through Hall VII just for fun, to have a nice round trip. We derigged the new shaft and went back to Hall I in bivouac. Messages in CaveLink from Petr and Mark came late. Big problem: They forgot to take the stove ! We checked the Hall I bivouac and we saw it. Well, they had at least the back-up: the spirit stove. So, problem solved for now.
Next day, next question mark: a pitch with water (Duschecke) left unexplored by Petr in 2013. The waterfall in Hall 1 was louder than usually. Because we didn't had connection with outside word, we could only guess what's going on at surface....rain.
The survey lines in the area we had to go that day showed that Duschecke pitch is going to Hall VI but you never know. We found the old bolts from Petr and Oli went through planting two more bolts. The view was crazy. The whole Hall VI and it's upper part that come from Hall V was visible from a side.
Then we went to West meander to derigg West Shaft. Oli went down In West Shaft to "visit" this place. He came back with the rope from the shaft. I was sooo sad. This shaft goes to Labyrinth bivouac and to Bell Shaft, the deepest point on this part, - 700m. Exploring this side was like a puzzle. Piece by piece we deciphered the entire area that have several crawls and side passages. Now, without the rope from West Shaft the Mother Darkness is taking back it's dark kids. Nobody will come here too soon for sure.
We bring up to Hall I all the stuff from West Meander. On the way we collected some clay deposits that were so black that Oli expected to be vulcanic remains. Last pictures here and off we go.
Back in Hall I bivouac we had messages from Mark and Petr: digging site one closed, they are trying other way. Kreuzhohle is closing every crack we search. I went to sleep in my place under the monster block that separate Hall I from Hall II. Usually here, on my left was Uli then Tom. Now, is the lady dark... . Oli is sleeping in his "place" between the rocks of Hall I. This way, the place looks more populated. Only the waterfall dripping on the bottles that we use to collect the water is breaking the silence. We are just some ants that disturbed the Mother Nature, period. Who doesn't realize how insignificant we are, need to start exploring. He can understand a lot of things much better. Be humble and bless what you live. This is so rare today.
In the morning,coffee and tea, musli with milk powder. Salami and cheese and back on track. Question mark 3: the small hall from the end of Crystal Meander and the deep narrow shaft that is developed below Hall V, after descending a 27 m shaft. In the Hall V Oli went down on P 27 to see the deep crack that I was there in 2014. He decided that is impossible to enlarge it. The rock fall more than 10 seconds so probably is the deepest pitch here, but we can't get through. Younger cavers in 100 years from now should check this out ! The tight area is vertical and is at least 10 meters deep. Crazy hard work to enlarge it. So, dead and end for us and question mark on map. After that, we went in the river bed from the bottom of Hall VI to have a last look.
Then, we went to last point: the small hall above the bottom of the Piatra Unirii intersection consisting of Wunderland Meander and Crystal Meander. The rope was in place and I went down. Oli came to join to revisit something that we reached together six years ago coming from Wunderland meander. Then he went up to bolt a traverse line to the small hall from above. The hall is not larger than 4 meters diameter and isn't going anywhere. Because the drilling machine ran out of accu, he named it "No Power Hall". We took the rope, slings and carabiners from here and went back to Hall I bivouac.
In the main Hall nr.1 from The Ruins there was a connection between two floors left unexplored. Because was near the bivouac area, we went there after we had just a tea. The entrance in the shaft begins on the way to Steingarten. It's an opening to the left that goes vertical. I planted 3 bolts and went down where I reach a very nice horizontal passage. There we found survey points.
Now the problem is to see which one. We surveyed the segment and turned back. In bivouac Petr and Mark arrived from their site. Happy reunion !
While having dinner we reported each other what happened for the last 3 days. The cave is done. We were not very sure if this is a happy moment or not. I was actually shocked. Well, I spent to much time here I guess, and became a second home. So, I need to start to be happy. Meanwhile the waterfall in Hall I became louder. Nothing fancy outside the cave, either heavy rain, or snow.
We opened a bottle of wine to mark the last night here before the exit. Mark came to sleep on Tom's place. Petr took it's place on a huge block. Each one have it's own "bedroom".
Friday morning we packed and cleaned the bivouac site. Petr went first on rope then Mark followed. I went third. I asked the guys to stop in the Big Hall because I want to make a picture. The view is so cool:
Then we went further pushing two kitbags each. In the old bivouac, at -175m, we noticed the airflow was different so definitely outside was some kind of rain. We took a short break for a hot water drink and then we continued. In 2 hours we reached the bottom of the entrance shaft. I went up the last. After the second rebelay Oli came to pitch head to tell me he have a surprise for me. "Hmmm, maybe a lift would be good, I thought".
Well, the surprise was the half of meter snow all around ! Christmas time on 25 of September ! What a madness. No more dancing on the big stone in front of the cave. What stone ? Was covered.
We didn't took all the materials with us on the way to hut. I got most of stuff in the backpack, but some metal things like descender and carabiners. The way to hut was a complete whiteout. Instead of 2 hours we arrived in 4. The bigest problem was to keep the trail because on the top side is pretty steep and you don't want to descend with "G". Oli did a good job finding the path.
Back to the hut we scared some guys that were hanging around with lots of beers. Well, was Friday, and the last week-end the hut was open. Especially after such a big snow fall.
Saturday the snow was reaching the windows ! All clients went down in the valley but us. The sky kept snowing like crazy. Oli, Petr and Mark went to Kreuzhohle cave entrance to try to rescue the materials left in cave entrance while I had to use the shovel to make paths in snow around the hut. An Ice Bar was a nice ideea, but for who ? Well, there were 2 more tourists in the hut. They waited us to go down together the next day. The attempt to reach the cave was a failure.
In the evening the clouds were gone and a astonishing sunset covered the mountains in orange.
Sunday we had to say good bye to our guests and went down swimming through fresh powder. Sunny dream winter day.
Descending to Lofer in a total opposite landscape then one week before was an enchantment. The sun, the blue sky and the fresh powder... .
I went with Oli and Mark to Munich where they droped me in the airport. Back to civilization, I had to clean somehow my backpack before check in. In the evening I was home. Sometimes thing are happening so fast that you don't realize what's going on. Equipment that I used underground: Helmet: Edelrid Ultralight Junior Main light: PETZL Duo S Secondary light: Petzl Tikka (2017) Undersuit: Steinberg Alladino Oversuit: Aventure Verticale Titan red Socks: 1 x Lorpen TETA, 1 x Lorpen T2 Hunting Extreme Overcalf "second skin": Fjord Nansen Are Balaclava: Black Diamond Jacket: Down jacket Simond Makalu light Gloves(caving): 2 x Ansell Marigold Multiplus 40 Skin gloves: Quechua Gloves: Quechua Forclaz 20 Boots: EtcheSecurite Clark Knee pads: Warmbac Harness: Aventure Verticale Muruck Chest harness: Petzl torse Footloop ascender: Petzl Ascension Chest ascender: Edelrid Wind Up (2016 model) Descender: PETZL stop (pre 2018 model) Cowtails: from dynamic rope Singing Rock Icon 9,3mm Cowtails carabiners: Edelrid Pure Descender carabiner: Edelrid Oval Power Triple Backup ascender: Petzl Tibloc 1 + Petzl OK Triact Braking carabiner: Kong oval steel straight gate Harness maillon: Peguet 10mm zicral Footloop: Petzl footcord x 2 pcs. + 2 pcs. Edelrid nineteen carabiners Tackle bags: Steinberg Ovoidale, Yana Ovoidale Tablet bag: Petzl Boltbag Auxiliary carabiners: Simond Rocky screw, Edelrid Bulletproof, Petzl Djin Sleeping bag: Simond Makalu II Light (-9 comfort) Bivouac bag: Vaude Biwak I Bivouac lamp: Petzl Noctilite + Petzl Tikka 2017 Survival blanket: 3 pieces Aptonia.
Equipment that I used on surface: Jacket: Simond Alpinist Light Windproof Pants: Simond Alpinist Light stretch Technical T-shirts Short sleeves: Vaude Technical T-shirts Long sleeves: Simond 1/2 zip sweatshirt fleece vest: Retezat Skyrace Intersport 2018 Socks: Simond Alpinism Fleece: Simond hoody Gloves: Simond Sprint, Simond Cascade Bandana: Simond edge turquoise Beanie: Edelrid Rope Beanie Light Boots: Simond Alpinism light Backpack Fjord Nansen Nanga Parbat Backpack raincover: Fjord Nansen Sunglass: Orao SG 500 T-shirts cotton: Kreuzhohle logo
Electronics: Tablet: Lenovo TAB3A7 essential Video: GoPro Hero 5 Photo: Sony Alpha 5000 Power Bank: Hama Pipe power pack 10400mah + Promate 13200mah Distance metering: DistoX 2 (leica X310 modified) Accesories: 6 x Petzl Duo-S accu, 3 x GoPro Hero rechargeable battery, 1xUSB C cable
Titlul trebuia sa fie "Masivul Bucegi - Culmea Tiganesti - Varful Omu" insa zapada groasa si din belsug, plus o plecare de "ora speologului" la 13, au curmat planul de acasa. Sau poate "gluma de 1 Aprilie" a fost motivul... whatever.
Fiind mijloc de saptamana, Branul arata a ghost town. Am savurat o cafea si un ceai facut la primus pe partia pustie, apoi ne-am indreptat cu masina spre Voina.
Intre 18 si 20 februarie ne-am luat portia de Iezer. Pustiu, doar noi si muntele.
Am pornit de miercuri, 17 februarie, sa dormim la cabana Voina ca sa plecam pe traseu devreme si odihniti, fara oboseala acumulata de statul in masina. Am vazut cum e sa fim singurii turisti in ditai' cabana. Superb !
Am mancat bine la micul dejun si am pornit la drumul cel mai direct de iesire in golul alpin: Culmea Vacarea. De la 4 dimineata se pusese pe ninsoare usoara. Pe prima panta, pana trecem de lucrarile hidrotehnice, era pojghita de gheata sub zapada proaspata. Apoi, intrand in padure, a inceput feeria ce o regasim doar iarna.
Nu ma mai saturam de privit copacii incarcati bine cu nea. Am avut un chef deosebit tura asta de filmat. Era deosebit. Ninsoarea usoara, ca din ilustratele de Craciun, zapada neatinsa, linistea... .
Dupa 3 ore de impins la deal, iesim in golul alpin. Nu vedeam bineinteles nimic de jur imprejur si m-am concentrat pe detaliile din preajma noastra. Dupa inca doua ore soseam la Stana din Vacarea, Puteam continua ca sa campam aproape de varf dar parca mai frumos era la stana, plus ca era o premiera si pentru baieti. Dupa ce am facut cafea si ceai, am decis sa ramanem peste noapte acolo.
Am dormit bine, cu fojgaielile firesti caci simteam prin saltelute fiecare denivelare. Mai se auzea si cate un zgomot de prin stana care ne facea sa tresarim. Pe mine si pe Costin, caci Mircea dormea dus de mult. A fost racoare dar nu frig. Avem saci de puf. De -3, -5 si -9 confort. Plus sacii de bivuac care pe langa faptul ca iti protejeaza puful de umiditate, confera un plus de izolatie termica. Am ramas doar in "second skin" peste noapte.
De dimineata... ehhh de dimineataaa, a fost ce trebuie. Inclusiv pasarelele se bucurau ca iese soarele. La inceput timid, ascuns dupa o patura de nori. Apoi, s-a ridicat mai sus si a albastrit tot in jur. Nu mai vroiam sa plec nicaieri.
Dupa cascat gura si impachetat tot, am pornit pe o vreme de vis mai departe pe Culmea Vacarea. Greu ne-am rupt de povestea oferita de stana transformata in casuta de zahar pudra.
Dupa o eternitate am ajuns in Varful Vacarea. Parca nu se mai terminau "cocoasele" culmii. Sunt vreo sase, fiecare dn ele facand cu schimbul iluziei ca ala e varful. Imprejur, spectacol. Bucegii ca un tort de bezea, Craiul cu "fierastraul" pudrat. Leaota de nerecunoscut din partea aceasta. E foarte impunatoare, amenintatoare chiar. Vecinii de peste deal, Papusa, Batrana, Piscanu... . Si Huluba in stanga se arata ca un mot alb: "Sunt si eu aici, ce nu ma vedeti ?".
Cornise la greu in seile Vacarei. Zapada perfecta cat sa nu te afunzi pana la genunchi. Vibramul musca pefect. Nu e nevoie de coltari, plaiurile crestei Iezerului fiind late. Ce mai merg ele de schi de tura... . Dupa varful Vacarea, incepe si vantul sa-si faca un pic aparitia. Pe Varful Taratoasa chiar incepe sa bata incontinuu. Nu mai aveam mult pana in caldarea lacului Iezer si parca imi parea rau.
Dupa varful Catunu trecem in peisaje ce le vezi in documentarele cu regiunile vesnic inzapezite. Antarctica de Iezer. Spre coada Fagarasului soarele se duce la culcare cu un spectacol de filtrare prin nori. Ajungem la Crucea Ateneului, saua de unde vom cobora la lacul si refugiul Iezer.
Imediat sub sa, e liniste. Vajul e pe partea cealalta. Ma uit in jos si decid sa schimb betele cu pioletul. Incaltam si coltarii sa nu coboram cu "G-ul". Mircea ramane cu betele, s-a indragostit de ele. Gasesc un zig-zag ideal si in 50 de minute deschid usa refugiului. Costin ramane in urma sa isi aminteasca cum e pe o panta mai zdravana cu "ustensilele" din dotare.
Inauntru, surpriza: curat, incarcator USB, lumina de la panoul solar, curatenie si saltelute noi. Citisem numai chestii sumbre despre starea refugiului. Nu pot decat sa ma bucur ca nu e asa si sa le multumim celor ce au avut grija ca si acest refugiu sa arate cum trebuie. Exceptand urmele lasate de un patruped ce a pasit prin priciurile de jos, totul arata foarte bine.
Dupa un drum de sapte ore, organismele cereau calorii. Am topit zapada incontinuu si am bagat pe rand supa de rosii si de vacuta, cartofi piure cu ceapa uscata si crutoane, slanina, pate de ficat si din nou supa de nu mai stiu ce. Aveam si prajiturele asa ca ne-a luat si o lene de zile mari dupa o astfel de cina.
Ne-am bagat la somn. Cu toate ca sigur era mai frig decat la stana, izolatia foarte buna a refugiului a facut sa para ca e totul in regula. Spre dimineata am transpirat in sac caci am avut "ilustra" idee sa dorm cu pufoaica pe mine ca sa nu ma trezeasca "frigul de la ora cinci", atunci cand e cel mai frig peste noapte si n-ai chef sa iesi din sac sa mai tragi ceva pe tine.
Dimineata cerul era din nou gri, ca in prima zi. Si ca sa se inchida cercul, a inceput sa ninga. De aceea nici nu era frig. Cum nu prea aveam la ce casca gura, am mancat bine si am savurat doua cafelute. Am strans tot si cum ma eliberasem de mare parte din alimente ajunse in stomacuri, am preluat punga cu deseuri la mine in rucsac. Impartirea greutatii intre participanti e esentiala, pe langa muuuulte altele.
Am pornit la vale, prin vale, caci pe varianta de culme nu am fi vazut oricum nimic. Zapada era foarte buna si bocna, fiind devreme. Adica fara probleme sa curga ceva. Cel putin pana la pranz. In deschiderea alpina a vaii nu era nimic de imortalizat, fiind un adevarat "whiteout" insa ajunsi in zona copacilor iar a inceput "povestea de iarna". De data asta insotita si de raul vaii Iezerului. Am coborat incet ca sa mai trag cadre, nu ma mai saturam si gandul ca se termina tura nu imi convenea.
Mai jos, valea Iezerului primeste ca intarire valea Catunului pentru ca si mai jos sa isi aduca la randul sau aportul de apa vaii Batrana.
De la confluenta, incepe "civilizatia". Fiind zi de week-end, ne strecuram printre masini si turisti. La Voina parcarea era full acum. Mancam cate ceva si pornim spre case. Inca o tura ramane in amintiri.
Da, "tipul" ala din antet sunt eu...acum 26 de ani.
Devenise o traditie in gasca noastra Oxygene: 1 decembrie e la Omu, pe Cerb, pe Morar, pe Take Ionescu via Malaiesti, Omu sa fie doar.
Eram studenti si vai de noi. Echipamentul "autentic" de nimic, pioletii facuti de Bobi la I.M.G.B. (Intreprinderea de Masini Grele Bucuresti) aveau cam 4 Kg. Betele erau de schi, caci telescopicele deabia aparusera si costau jumatate de salariu. Parazapezile le trageam eu la masina Pfaff a bunicilor din diferite materiale, printre care fas sau blugi. Cortul marca Camping Urziceni model "Cerna" avea fundul dublat cu fas dublu impregnat cusut la aceeasi masina demna de muzeu. Fundul original al sau era o musama efectiv care la prima tura de iarna a inghetat si cand am indreptat-o cu pioletul s-a rupt in bucati. Mai aveam ochelari de schi, Look si Baraffaldi, Aia Look ii luasem de noi, ceilalti ii aveam de pe vremea cand rupeam partiile atat la Cupa IPA, Drumarilor sau UGSR cat si la agrement. Cagula cu orificii "matisate" manual, confectionata dintr-o caciula in care am dat gauri in zona gurii si a ochilor. Pulovere de lana pe post de "fleece".
Cele mai "tari" piese erau sacii de dormit vara la mare si cand era cald... . Eu aveam un Trigano, frantuzesc. Avea vreo 20 de ani de existenta. Dan avea un "Urziceni" roz cu flori. Restul, blugi, geaca si vesta din blugi. Ahhh, noroc cu pufoaicele ca nu am facut "pareza" in noptile iernilor de atunci. Manusi de piele si de schi din vatelina.Cu asta mergeam si nu ma cramponam de ideea ca "n-am".
Toate astea erau compensate din plin de dorinta de a descoperi muntele in straie albe. Asta era mai tare decat noptile geroase si lipsurile. Cartile lui Coman, Fritz Rudolf sau Nestor Urechea tineau loc de cursuri.
Cerbul il faceam ca la carte, gen expeditie. O zi de "aclimatizare" in Poiana Costilei la stana de acolo, stana ce a fost rasa complet acum trei ani. Ajungeam acolo in timp util sa savuram ultimele clipe de lumina naturala. Se insera la 16:00. Pierdeam vremea depanand planuri si povesti. Povesteam ce carti am mai citit. Nu aveam probleme ca nu e semnal sau ca nu putem posta ceva pe vreo retea. Ai nostri stiau doar ca ne vom intoarce in trei zile, seara.
In tura asta nu am dormit deloc la stana din Costila. Nu ca nu ne era somn, ci din cauza frigului. Aveam un termometru analogic ce se punea pe bordul masinilor. Am prins -17*C in Poiana Costilei in noaptea aia. Dupa ce am pus pe noi toate hainele ce le aveam si ne-am bagat in sacii aceia anemici de dormit, am luat primusul marca Thermogas intre picioare sa incalzesc gazul din butelie caci era doar Propan si ingheta. Primusul era tip baioneta cu cartus. Adica o data intepata butelia, trebuia sa ramana infipta in arzator pana se consuma. Nu o puteai detasa. Nu era neaparat o problema, caci volumul ansamblului era mic.
Ca sa revin, in noaptea aia nu am inchis un ochi niciunul din noi. La primele semne ale diminetii am tasnit afara sa ne bata un pic soarele, apoi am pornit spre Valea Cerbului.
Bineinteles ca nu mai fusese nimeni si trebuia spart tot drumul. Problema era cand zapada depasea cu mult genunchii si ajungeam efectiv sa plutin deasupra ei doar datorita rucsacului.
Inaintam greu dar nu ne pasa. Aveam sase ore de lumina inainte si oricum ne impartisem drumul in doua, urmand sa facem bivuac undeva in circul glaciar 2. Aveam si locul "meu", langa un perete imediat ce poteca trece pe versantul Morarului. Inainte de ea e o saritoare. Cum in aparat trona un singur film foto de 36 de pozitii, turele respective nu erau insotite de o abundenta de imagini. In tura asta a fost o exceptie caci am carat doua camere: Un Zenit 122 cu obiectiv Helios fix de 58mm f1,2 si un "no name" - Remac cu distanta focala fixa, de 35 mm, cu optica "deosebita' formata dintr-un singura lentila convexa de plastic, practic un monoclu.. Asta mergea pe baterii si tragea singur filmul dupa prima declansare. Ma rog, trebuisa sa traga singur filmul, daca nu ingheta :). Il mai ajutam luand aparatul "la palmi".
O data trecuti de Poiana Vaii Cerbului am trecut la muncile de impins zapada cu schimbul. Aproape de primul luminis, au trecut de noi un cuplu. El si ea ! El in adidasi, ea in niste ghete. Restul, echipament de cabana si un rucsacel verde cu galben. "Fac si ei o plimbare pana in Poiana Priponului" imi zic. Am zis mersi ca aveam acum urme in fata.
Ne-am oprit la topit zapada pentru o cafeluta. Nu ne grabeam niciunde, eram independenti. In Poiana Priponului incepem sa ne intrebam unde merg cei doi ce ne depasisera mai devreme... . Ne oprim la cateva poze si continuam sa urcam Priponul Vaii Cerbului.
Era cam 14:00 ora si zapada era din ce in ce mai mare. Greu de impins si ne scufundam cu rucsacii. Urmele cuplului continuau.
- Mah, astia cred ca merg si ei la Omu, ii zic lui Dan.
- Asta e parerea lor, imi raspunde.
Fix inainte de saritoarea ce traverseaza firul vaii si te duce pe versantul Morarului ii gasim:. ea, statea pe vine, sa se incalzeasca chiar inainte de urcus. Hipotermia intrase in ea. El, "tarzan", sapa trepte cu mainile, sa urce mai departe.
Strigam la ei daca sunt ok si intreb ce cred ca fac.
- Pai mergem la Omu, 4 ore scria pe panou.
Raman mut pentru moment.
- In maxim o ora e intuneric iar aici e deabia jumatea traseului, ii spun.
- Aoleu.
- Pai da, ai mai facut traseul macara vara ?
- Nu !
Bun asa! Pun pufoaica pe fata si il rog pe Dan sa urce inainte pana la platforma "noaastra" de cort. Intre timp le explic celor doi ca avem de toate la noi si ca va trebui sa ne inghesuim patru intr-un cort de doi. Ceai cald cat mai repede pentru ei si ne-om descurca cumva cu hainele si sacii.
- Voi aveti cort la voi ? ma intreaba baiatul
- Pai ce crezi ca caram in rucsaci ? Cartofi ? Cerbul nu il faci iarna in adidasi intr-o zi !
M-am abtinut cat am putut sa raman calm, imi veneau multe cuvinte sa-i spun inconstientului.
Bat urme bine de tot in urma lui Dan sub forma de trepte ca sa poata si ei urca. Nivelam platforma bine cu bocancii si ridicam micul nostru adapost. Mare noroc ca in tura asta aveam izoprene pentru prima data ! Noi, mergeam fara saltelute inainte, ca le consideram mofturi. Ne bagam toti in cort si pun un izopren catre intrare ca paravan. Celalalt izopren sub noi iar sacii i-am desfacut ca sa putem sa tinem piciorele toti patru in ei. Am dat drumul la primus si am inceput sa topim zapada. I-am descaltat pe "porumbei" si i-am pus sa-si maseze picioarele cu zapada. Fata nu isi simtea degetele de la picioare deasupra primusului. Am intrat usor in panica. I-am dat ciorapii mei de schimb. Aveam la mine si o folie de supravietuire si i-am pus sa stea sub ea deasupra primusului. Se facuse condens in cort dar se incalzisera cat de cat. A trebuit sa ma impun sa-si scoata si blugii. Nu eram la caterinca, gluma se terminase de mult. S-au conformat.
- O sa o tii in brate toata noaptea !
Am petrecut o a doua noapte de pomina in circul glaciar 2 din Valea Cerbului. Am povestit de zanele de aici, de traseele trecute si mai ales, de pregatirea unei ture pentru musafirii nostrii ad-hoc. Nu mai tin minte cum ii chema si nici nu are importanta. Nu le-am facut nici o poza, caci imi era jena. Apare doar rucsacelul lor intr-una din pozele de afara cu bivuacul nostru. L-am pus pe baiat sa imi promita ca le va povesti tuturor prietenilor sai ce prostie a facut si ca nu va uita noaptea aia. Sper sa fi invatat ceva atunci... .
Pentru ca show-ul sa fie complet, am ramas si fara singura bricheta pe care o aveam. Dan avea chibriturile ude fleasca si cadea fosforul de pe ele. Imi vine ideea sa incerc un scurtcicuit la blitzul extern pe care il caram cu mine. Daca faci masa intre plus si minus pe cablu cu bobina incarcata, face o scanteie. Scanteie facea, dar nu vroia sa aprinda primusul. Astfel ca am adormit refuzand sa cred ca ma voi trezi fara cafea.
Am reusit sa dormim cateva ore chinuit. La primele semne de lumina, am desfacut o conserva sa mancam cu painea bocna. Apoi, ne-am imbracat musafirii si le-am urat drum bun inapoi spre Poiana Izvoarelor.
Dan si cu mine am strans cu greu cortul caci se intepenisera bine cuiele si nu vroiam sa le rupem. Apoi, am pornit. Dan primul pe panta de zapada. A inceput un fel de scufundare cu randul in zapada.
Ca sa nu mai disparem cu totul din cand in cand, am elaborat un nou tip de mers: de-a busilea pe coate si geninchi. Asa, suprafata era mai mare si nu ne mai duceam un metru in zapada. Chinul a durat pana am intrat in circul glaciar 3, ultimul. De aici zapada era beton, iar spre fata Morarului nici macar nu era multa caci o suflase bine vantul. Am inceput sa numaram pasii. Ne ardeau buzele dupa un fum de tigara. Soarele ne-a raspuns ca nu mai e mult. Am taiat prin serpentine scurte ultimul urcus. Am ajuns la statia meteo cu soarele in ochi.
Tino ne-a deschis.
- Ce faceti nebunilor, imi era dor de oameni !
- Ai un foc ? au fosst primele noastre cuvinte.
De doua saptamani nu mai urcase nimeni aici si am fost primiti regeste. Am turnat in noi litrii de ceai si am reusit, in fine, sa dormim ca boierii dupa doua nopti de pomina.
Dimineata m-am trezit cu noaptea in cap sa prind fenomenalul rasarit. Atmosfera asa curata nu exista decat iarna. Multe nu exista decat iarna. Iar prietenia cu Dan dupa o astfel de tura nici iarna nu o rupe.
Am coborat clasic pe Hornul Mare catre Malaiesti, apoi am dat mai departe pe Valea Glajariei pana la Diham. De aici, un ultim efort pana in Busteni de unde am revenit cu personalul de seara, exact cum le spusesem parintilor acasa.
